Water and Brazil, Some Reflections and a Few Photos

 

Water and Brazil

This is a preliminary reflection on water in Brazil, a country that, in principle, has enough for its needs and then some.  The problem is in the distribution and management of water, and in the infrastructure that should carry it to the Brazilian population.  Later versions of this post will have more research and photos, but this preliminary reflection is a rough overview of Brazil’s water situation as we have seen it over the last few months. Some of these photos have appeared in earlier posts about life in the interior.

What I show here is what I have experienced and photographed in Brazil — mostly in the northeast state of Maranhão, which is among the poorest and least developed in Brazil.  My own subjective experience is augmented by reportage from São Paulo and Maranhão newspapers and weekly journals.

 

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In a povoada (unincorporated settlement) near Rosário a woman carries water from a common water tank. The road and the scene could be from many countries in Africa, but this is less than three hours south from the Maranháo capital city of Sáo Luís. In this photo the season that brings rain is still weeks away and it has been dry for months.

 

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Not far from the city of Mirinzal, on the road near a povoada in the region known as the Baixada Occidental.  This driver is carrying a water tank to used where there is no municipal water supply or plumbing.

 

Some Larger Issues: Water in the Amazon and the Interior

The world is familiar with issues of conservation of the forests and aquifers in the Amazon region of Brazil.  The area is being deforested at an astonishing rate by miners, lumber companies, farming businesses, and others.  Farming of the lucrative cattle and grain products (e.g., soy beans) is creating more food and less water.

Directly or indirectly, forest and water in this region is especially threatened by the world’s demand for meat — either as cattle raised here or the grain used (and massively exported) to feed cattle elsewhere.  Some sources say that soy would be nine times more efficient as a source of protein if used directly, rather than being used as cattle feed to produce meat.  Much of the cattle ranching in Brazil is based on free range and thus needs space — this is perhaps the biggest threat to Brazil’s forests and water.

 

Water in São Paulo, and the Missing 20,000 Water Tanks

São Paulo’s reservoirs are threatened by a long, dry season.  Their replenishment is a matter of nature providing enough rain in the wet season.  But these problems are to some extent predictable and the infrastructure to manage a shortage has not yet been built.

Again, a major problem is in the distribution system.  In São Paulo there are eight major systems.  They are only partly connected and metro-wide “integration” of the water infrastructure is an engineer’s dream and a very problematic political task.

Brazil is currently plagued with a declining economy and is hobbled at the national level by corruption and feuding over ethics investigations, the jailing of leading political figures, and the possible impeachment of others.  In São Paulo the political situation is seems less contentious, but the water infrastructure demands a huge investment that is not readily accomplished in times of economic stress.

As an example, the northern zone of greater São Paulo is somewhat distant from the central commercial district and it houses a millions of people with modest incomes and standard of living.  This region is fed by the Cantareira water reserve, which has fallen to as low as 15% of capacity and has only recovered a few percent since the rains of the summer (i.e., the months that are winter in the Northern hemisphere).

Cantareira dropped to a “dead volume” — the level at which water does not freely flow out of the reservoir but must be pumped.  This depletes the volume further until, in theory, they reach the mud at the  bottom and the system fails entirely.  This has not been happened, but the measures to improve the situation have been difficult.

At full efficiency the Cantareira reservoir supplies 31 thousand liters of water a second to 9 million people.  By September  (24th) the newspaper Fohla de São Paulo reported that the system had fallen to about half that performance —  to 14 thousand liters/second and 9 million to 5 million people.  The slack in providing water to the northern region of the city has been taken up by shifting some load to other systems.

Load sharing is more effective if there is a metropolitan-wide system of integration, but that is not yet in place.

Another second tactic is rationing. This modifies the behavior of end-users by  simply shrinking the supply or, alternately, the hours of access. According to some newspaper accounts, certain areas of the affected zone are often without water for several days.  Sometimes the rationing is by time of day, reportedly as low in some places as 20 of 24 hours with dry faucets and toilets.  This is a working district so people may not be in their homes when there is water.  They need water tanks (caixas d’agua) that could be filled and would bridge the off-times of the municipal water.

The São Paulo mayor Geraldo Alckmin promised 20,000 new water tanks to be installed in troubled areas.  Thar was during an election campaign.  Only a fraction have been installed.  The city claims that they have not been able to deliver the tanks to many (or even most) households because nobody is home when the trucks come by (during the working hours of the city employees, of course).  This troubled half-solution is proceeding slowly, and only (it appears) under great pressure from the press.

Yet, the water tank is a basic feature of the Brazilian countryside and of most towns and cities in the interior.  Even in better-supplied areas, homes, businesses and factories use the tanks to stabilize their water supply.  This is true all over Brazil, in cities and in rural areas.

The problem, again, is one of distribution.  In this case it is the far-flung neighborhoods of São Paulo working people that are at the short end of the distribution chain.

But load sharing and infrastructure provide one approach to redistributing the water supply. Another is modifying consumer behavior.  For those that are more generously supplied there are a number of incentives to reduce consumption.  São Paulo initiated a system of fees (equivalent to fines) for usage above normal, and included a bonus for reductions in use.  Modifying consumer behavior in the better-supplied systems theoretically freed water to be distributed to the troubled districts such as those served by the Cantareira Reservoir.

By March, 2016 the São  Paulo situation had improved considerably due to heavy rains.  As a sign of improvement the system of fees and bonuses was scheduled to be suspended.

Recycling and Waste Management

There is an interconnected set of issues where water supply is limited and waste management is troubled.  In this small city of Mirinzal trash is routinely dumped (see large appliances  at photo right) and used tires are unceremoniously left about.  Both catch water during the wet season and become possible breeding grounds for mosquitoes.  In days of the Aedes Aegipti mosquito, such diseases as Zika, Chikunkunya and Dengue are major public issues (as is the spread of microencephalitis for which the mosquite may be a vector).

Managing water in the rainy season is important in its own way, as is distributing water in scarcity.  Trash and waste disposal are deeply interconnected with the water supply in both rural and urban areas.

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Mirinzal, Maranhão.  The discarded appliances at the right are problematic, as are the tires.  Both hold stagnant, standing water where mosquitoes breed.  In this case, it appears that the tires have been filled with dirt and are being turned into a garden of sorts.  This is the rare case, though.

 

Some Views from the Interior

Water tanks are ubiquitous in the smaller cities of Brazil.  The tanks are vital in the interior regions with no municipal water supply (photo above of ox cart, and the section below on caixas d’agua).  Settlements and towns in the country are often spread along rivers and water sources, but those sources are heavily used, vulnerable and the water often dries up or is unsafe.  The woman in the photo above is carrying household water from a common water source to her home.  This is not an unusual scene in povoadas. The most common source is be a well or a jointly-used water tank.  Rarely does a natural source meet local needs during the dry season.

Since much of our research is based in the provincial capital of São Luís and in the interior of the state of Maranhão, most of the photographs below are of that region.  Not shown are the indigenous regions of the interior where in September of 2015 there was a major water emergency, exacerbated by fires, in the forests of the interior.  Several cities declared water emergencies and much forested land was threatened.  There was insufficient water to fight a major fire.

These issues compound problems created by both nature by human and political behavior.

By comparison, São Paulo officials said that the water situation was only “really serious” when we begin to see trucks of water roaming the streets of the city.

In São Luís we see the water trucks almost daily.

Water in the federal state of Maranhão

Maranhão is a long way from the metropolitan centers of Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo.  Like those centers, it is on or near the Atlantic Ocean, but is dependent on its fresh water sources in the interior.  These systems are underdeveloped in general, and subject to shortages in dry seasons.

Readers of Brazilian popular fiction and many films are aware that the region of the sertão (often translated as “backlands”) has been depopulated for decades because of drought.

This region is has similarities to America’s “dust bowl” which emptied out much of the western region of the American Midwest during the dust storms of several decades ago.  In the United States this gave rise to a national rural recovery administration.  This period was memorialized in such books/films as John Steinbeck’s Grapes of Wrath, and in the photography of Dorothea Lange and others working for the Farm Services Administration.

The sertao is Brazil’s rough analogue to the American dust bowl.  It is not geographically part of the federal state of Maranhão, but some of the dry-season problems of Maranhão are reminiscent of these famous dust bowl regions. The beautiful green of the countryside and its forests become dry and dusty waiting for the rains.  Even the palm trees and ground foliage get dusty. In many years the rains are not enough to replenish the water systems.  This threatens rice and cotton  crops, cattle production, and the lives of the inhabitants.

Like the dust bowl, the Northeast of Brazil, of which Maranhão is a part, is a major source of out-migration.  People in the interior migrate to Maranhão, and many others make the longer trip to major cities like São Paulo.

In São Paulo, however, they may live in a district like that served by Cantareira where water is in very short supply.  In some sense, moving the population contributes to moving the “water problem” from place to place in Brazil.

Even where there may be water, the distribution systems may be only rudimentary — for example, as in the village market described below.

The first photo from the interior is from the small city of Pindaré where the market is a major outlet for freshly-caught fish.  This is a major source of sustenance and economic life in the region.

The market in Pindaré has a common water source — the faucet below provides water for cleaning fish and other market needs.

 

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This faucet seems to be the only source of water for the score of vendors, many of them cleaning and selling fish

 

In villages and povoadas in the interior, food preparation is a matter of careful planning and complicated hygiene.  The scene below brings back childhood memories of my grandparents’ farm where animals were butchered in the open and shared by many families.  There was little refrigeration and the best way to preserve meat was to keep it on the hoof.

In the scenes below animals come to the party alive and become dinner in the course of the celebration.  This is not “animal sacrifice” in the religious sense, but rather a practical way of feeding a large group.  The practice gains a spiritual/community sense in that there are often rituals or moments of praise for the gifts of food that they share.

Food Preparation

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This outdoor food preparation is at a religious celebration in Santa Rosa dos Pretos also called Santa Rosa do Barão), a settlement along the federal highway south of São Luís

 

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At the same festival in Santa Rosa dos Pretos — food preparation is continued “outside,” but there is no running water. This woman must prepare food for dozens of people without the benefit of a kitchen with cooling and running water.  Some water is provided by a water tank, or reservoir, but there is no stable connection to a municipal water source.

 

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Washing dishes for a large group of celebrants. These women do a remarkable job of maintaining basic hygiene and cleanliness in spite of having to hold their water supply in pans like this.

 

Some Household Systems

Grocery stores sell 6-liter bottles of household water.  These are helpful, but also enter the refuse stream of un-recycled plastic in the waste system.  More efficient are the delivery services that will bring you a 20-liter bottle within an hour or so if you live in a major service area.

A commonly-used word is “Diskagua,” which means you simply call and the water is delivered, usually by motorcycle (the disk portion of the word refers to the old-style telephones with a “disk” of numbers on a rotary dialer).

If you live in the interior away from an incorporated city or town, getting the bottles is much more difficult.  In some areas delivery is by truck, in others by motorcycle or by bicycle.

We have seen unlucky motorcycle diskagua drivers in heavy traffic with damaged and leaking 20-liter bottles lashed to the back.  In larger areas there are trucks carrying the bottles, but the “capillary” distribution to individual households is usually by small vehicle (or even by donkey cart in some places).

Apartments in the city of São Luís use this system since there is no potable water in the municipal pipes.  Many  have a boutique dispenser that also cools the water.

 

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Household drinking water. This system is repeated endless times in Brazilian homes, even in the city. The water is delivered in 20-liter bottles that are placed in a dispenser. Usually the delivery is by an underpaid and under-appreciated motorcycle delivery person.  When we gave a tip to our deliverer, he said “You’re not from around here, are you?”

 

The older water system below is from the kitchen of a pousada, or bed-and-breakfast where we sometimes stay in Pindaré.  We don’t think of this as a 5-star experience, and on our last visit there was no water at all until sundown.

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An older household system. Water can be from from a reservoir on the roof that helps balance out times of shortage and rationing. The sink is often dry, and water for cooking is stored in the red vase-like container.  In principle the water could also be from sanitary 20-liter plastic bottles, but you never know.

 

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This is such a venerable tradition that the urns are decorative and sometimes elaborated with lace covers. The original source of the water is often unclear. Depending on the householder, the water may be used just for cooking.

 

Plastic bottles are part of the solution, and part of the problem.

In the household systems above and below you can see that plastic bottles are an important part of the system.

Dependence on water, and dependence on plastic, go together in Brazil, creating a huge problem of recycling and plastic waste.  Plastic waste adds to other waste/rubbish removal problems to create standing water where mosquitoes breed in season.  This chain of interconnected water-refuse-public health issues begins with problematic hygiene in sewage and water systems, water shortages, generation of plastic alternatives for water, and the absence of recycling in many areas.

Solving any of these problems is like doing paper work with the Brazilian bureaucracy (where “Catch 22” is a basic situation) — you often can’t do just one thing at one office, you need to solve several other problems at different offices (which may be closed or across town).  The public health analogue is in the interconnectedness of water, sewage, waste removal, and recycling (all of which are, in turn, related in some way to other infrastructure issues in roads and the underlying water/sewer systems).

It is difficult to encourage recycling of plastic or reduce people’s dependence on plastic when getting water is so critical.  You might ask whether Brazilian could not simply get a reusable water bottle (like campers use). Many recycling-conscious people in other countries use camping bottles and refil them from a water tap.  This works where the municipal water supply is safe.  Many people do indeed reuse plastic water water bottles to reduce cost and waste.  When we are traveling in the interior we try to reuse commercial plastic bottles filled from our 20-liter tank at home — that is how we learned that they are thin and fragile, often cracking and losing the water (in your luggage or camera bag).

 

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A modest system with water of unknown origin. The plastic bottles are a plague in Brazil, but virtually the only safe water you can find in some areas. This is in a kitchen.  The house has no running water.

 

The home below is a modest one, but has the rare good fortune to have its own well water.  There is otherwise no municipal system of water or sanitation in this neighborhood in the interior of Maranhão (near the city of Rosário).

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It is rare that a household has its own well.

 

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This is not a home now (though it once was). It is an informal community space used for celebration. The indoor-outdoor kitchen is to the right. A long hose bring water from the neighborhood water tap in the street in front.  It is shared by many residents whose occupants generally have to carry the water to their homes.

 

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A closer view of the kitchen shows the common practice of moving some food preparation outside where waste is better controlled. The thin hose in the photo is about 75 feet long and runs from a shared neighborhood water faucet on the road. The duck will transmigrate to the celebration dinner here, without the benefit of running water.

 

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Utensils and water basin in the semi-outdoor kitchen.

 

In several of these photos (including the one below) you can see that individual households do try to recycle plastic bottles to cut cost and waste.  The bottle are not made to last, however.

Americans will be familiar with similar situations in the United States.  Residents in Flint Michigan suffered a serious pollution of their water, apparently due to decisions made at the state level.  As their water became unpotable, they were forced to buy bottled water (in plastic bottles, usually).  The irony is compounded by the fact that some of the bottled water supply was originally from the Great Lakes — rebottled and sold to them commercially.

 

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An old tank in side the building —  with the usual plague of plastic bottles.  This, and another cistern in the yard, are filled from the neighborhood water tap.  This takes the place of the raised water tank (caixa da agua) that would offer better sanitation and, when elevated, provide gravity-fed water.

 

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The outside cistern of the house. It is filled from the same community faucet but acts as a reservoir for non-potable water.

 

 

Calhau Beach Restaurants, São Luís

The beaches in São Luís are lined with restaurant and bars.  They vary in quality and hygiene, but some are quite popular regardless of what lies behind.  On the beach side of these businesses you can see the motley infrastructure that supports the kitchen and bathrooms.  It is hard to tell how much the bathrooms and kitchens are supported by city water or sewer system.  On rainy days effluent from the city purges into the bay.

The restaurant may be doing alright, but the runoff is part of the pollution in the the San Marcos Bay.

 

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Water tanks at ground level behind a beach bar/restaurant. One of the tank tops is broken — a potential problem in the mosquito season where uncovered tanks provide a breeding ground.

 

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More water tanks. They are filled from the city water system and provide stability in times of shortage. They are typical of infrastructure arrangements along the beach.  The apartment buildings behind have running water and their own reservoirs, but each individual apartment will have a commercial water bottle on a stand to provide potable water (see earlier photos)

 

The Ubiquitous Water Tank (caixa da agua)

The various household and commercial systems are often depending on water tanks for stabilizing the water supply.  They show up in the photos above.  Below are more such systems showing how common and essential they are outside areas of reliable municipal systems.

 

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Along the Brazilian federal highway BR135. This shows one plumbing arrangement that leads to the house. Blockhouses like this are often used to protect the water supply, sometimes even with gates ad locks.  This is next to a bus stop along the route south from the capital.

 

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A home in the countryside of Rosário. The water tank in the back is typical, as is the television antenna. Brazilian national policy has prioritized electricity and television access over water. Rural areas are more likely to have television then running water. This community is also served by a common well where women without a tank carry water in buckets down a dusty road (as in the first photo above)

 

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This is how plumbing get distributed — a commercial service in the city of Presidente Juscelino is delivering a large tank.  The truck seems to have other equipment to mount and create the plumbing for the tank.  This service is a huge commercial activity in the interior and in the cities as well.

 

 

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This system is in a settlement away with no municipal plumbing.  The tank is elevated and has two faucets — one that provides water in the basin below and another, with a thin hose, that takes water to the house behind.  The house also served as a restaurant and bar, so the water needs are significant. (This system is in a community called Rio Seco “dry river.”)

 

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Behind the house/restaurant/bar water is held in open containers, many of which are made from old tires

 

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A view from behind the house. The water tank is in the background in this photos. Hoses bring water to the washing machine an to various tanks and truck-tire containers. Here again the priority of water often collides with mosquito control. In the rainy season mosquito borne illness are a major health problem in Maranhão.  Plastic bottles are both critical and a plague.

 

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An inventive water system with old tires. They catch water in the rainy season and can be filled from the tank using this hose. There is no cover on the open water containers.

 

Sanitation

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A shower at a facility used for religious celebrations. Water is fed by a tank

 

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A typical outdoor bathroom. The pit toilet is surrounded by a woven palm structure. This signifies that it is a more or less “permanent” structure.

 

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This is a more temporary toilet made from plastic sheeting. You find them put up all over rural Brazil in spaces that are being used for celebrations and crowds. They are quickly put up, requiring only a few sticks, a plastic sheet, and a shallow hole in the ground. As the celebration wears on, guest wait for the dark so they can use the more sanitary trees beyond.