Artisans, Rosário (Maranhão), January 2016

 

In the interior of Maranhão, about 1 1/2 hours from São Luís by car, the town of Rosário rests on the Itapecuru River which provides much of the areas economy.  The thick clay on the banks turns to choking dust in the dry season, but it is heavy and ideal for artesanal pottery.

The area has several pottery workshops (olarias) that rely on this clay.  There are modern brick factories using this material. bit we visited smaller artisans with older, “traditional” methods.

Having spent many summers with my grandparents on a simple farm in central Illinois, seeing this old equipment reminded of childhood memories of rooting around in my grandfather’s barn.

The first shop, in the city

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An old potter’s wheel

 

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Freshly-made clay pots. they only need to be soaked in water to be ready to use.

 

The second shop, closer to river and the source of clay

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A workshop that seems to specialize in large pots and small pigs (and middle-sized Virgin Maries). They seem to prepare raw figures for local artisans who paint them for sale. This kiln is ancient and still functioning daily.

 

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Cleaning up the clay pigs for the fire

 

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Rows of larger utility and decorative pots

 

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More pigs

 

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An ancient wheel, with racks of pots and figurines in the background

 

Rosário also has a native industry making hammocks.  Our apartment, and most hotels have hook for hanging a rede, or hammock.

I use them for hanging my hat, but the older buildings have hooks in every room and many houses use the hammock as the chief place for resting/sleeping.

They are comfortable, though it takes some practice to get out of them in even a remotely skillful fashion.  In older places with dirt floors, the rede is safely off the ground.

 

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Rosârio craftsman making a rede, hammock

 

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An old machine of treadles, blocks, spools and the other devices of weaving looms.

 

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Another machine for making a hammock — it is the length of the rede and is strung along its length to make the fabric.  The craftsman puts it together by walking back and forth stringing each layer.